The Glass-Bottom Boat
Bangkok - my Totem
In 2019, my partner was offered a position that would have us move to Bangkok, Thailand. Our beings flooded with energy and the kind of nervous excitement children feel when they are about to embark on a flight unattended by parents, to arrive at an unknown but certain destination, all on their own. It was akin to that flutter within us.
Queries, but naturally, arose simultaneously, such as buzzing flies: would life resemble the one we were choosing to leave behind; would we embrace it cheerfully? Would the new culture receive us with enthusiasm, minus the bias that accompanies all foreigners?
These nervous enquiries were answered within six months of our arrival in vibrant Bangkok, the city that barely sleeps, and if at all, it sleepwalks.
Work life :
began promisingly. An office full of Thai folk who barely spoke any English but welcomed their new chief, warmly albeit quizzically. This new Indian boss- what is he bringing to the table? Is he kind, bright, social, fun- what? The curiosity shone on their faces, transparent and innocent.
home: is a sprawling 4-bedroom apartment that had seemed perfect when rented (we got greedy).
The city’s ambience: overflowing with unfamiliar and foreign smells. These invaded our senses, especially the vegetarian nose- my husband’s; meandering pathways off the main Sukhumvit led to whole new worlds- not one Soi resembling the other; condominiums, hotels, street food, street vendors, shops, shops, shops! What a mêlée, and cornucopia of elements coming at us – fast and furious! Our minds were jostled and shaken awake, as we were roused like six-sided dice in the game of Boggle/Bangkok, on overdrive, stimulated, receiving, dodging and imbibing the city’s unique vibe. Our hearts desperately attempted to store what each new day threw at us. The generosity of the place blew our minds: all laid bare, nothing concealed- we could either devour or spit out. We did a little of both.
Some of the imperative Musts:
- the Thai language, we quickly learnt, was a must-master lest it was okay to be treated like tourists forever;
- locating the nearest BTS station was a must-do (to avoid traffic snarls- a common daily occurrence),
- equipped with a Rabbit card in the wallet, an absolute must-have.
Monsoons arrived all too soon, lined with heavy downpours, followed by high levels of humidity or sparkling heat- followed by more rain, which never lasted. It was a wonderful break, however short-lived, and rubbed off us, lending us new shine.
We absorbed the season hungrily, soaking in the respite the skies offered.
A year later
Husband has befriended the staff, and is no longer an outsider; business is booming and everyone is cheering him on. I myself have found friends through the Thai class, and joined the AWC, (American Women’s Club) which in turn offers me great comfort- I find my feet along with a myriad eatery after my heart, which I frequent with gusto. My new friends are from all around the world, all chatty ladies. Being new(ish) to Thailand, friendships crystallize effortlessly and an easy camaraderie settles us in. My life is developing and daytime begins to resemble a VIP’s, replete with refreshing activities and events of a diverse nature.
Walks are undertaken in the by lanes of Bangkok, led by an older member who knows the city of yore well. These curious sunny quarters lead me to its soul, its history and its wounds. I am culturally alive, and Thai magic spreads its aura, like indelible ink on the fresh linen of my mind. Love is straining at my heart, which is keen to succumb. I climb the last step to this inevitable affair and befriend the humidity and the strong tropical sun, relentless in its pursuit of us new dwellers.
Bangkok and I are close to being in love.
Come March 2020- Covid strikes and how! A blow as low as any, in fact, lower than the lowest and no one knows for how long its impact would last, and to what degree mankind is to be locked in and stay locked. Even God, one feared, has no clue.
Panic, followed by Death, a close cousin, and paranoia, its twin- and that thing that we all believe we have embedded in the lines of our palm, destiny and control- well, it simply disappears; to hell with life as we knew it ~ it is altered forever!
Plans: travels, family gatherings, parties, picnics, sporting events, concerts, conferences and the human heart is compelled to follow a different beat, one in sync and in rhythm with the entire world. A world united but confused, holds its breath, at the edge of a cliff-hanging on for dear life, quite literally, masked but visible nevertheless.
Pandemic it was, that bonded us thus for the very first time.
The two and a half years that held us ransom, also pushed alive some home truths that had escaped our notice as we lived on, taking for granted the privilege of a good life- of Freedom at our fingertips. Money was simply paper or metal- stay home, protect your loved ones and wear a mask at all times.
Borders were both tighter and more fluid, depending upon which side you were on.
Roll to present day: 2023 has slipped by, and we’ve emerged in a new paradigm.
A newfound respect for the World Wide Web has arisen, for it is this that kept us connected, tethered to the throbbing universe beyond the four walls.
Humans need humans and meet and greet rules the roost, but online is a great line to throw into the ocean of humans.
Here, Bangkok has revived, and tourists have returned.
Summing Up
I can’t say that I know Bangkok inside-out- but what I do know is that it never let me down, and it’ll always have my heart.
What I have loved about living here has been its multi-faceted generosity-
- Be it fitness – I’ve walked at least seven kilometers a day in its humid glow, without tiring. The moisture-laden air and regular rains allow for greens to spout everywhere and Lumpini Park (close to home) is a haven.
- Be it food – Bangkok’s Street food is enormously filling, delicious and nutritive. I’ve tasted it all.
- Be it hotels – I’m not a big fan of five-star hotels, but thanks to the AWC events, I’ve sashayed into many lobbies and restaurants and tasted of some fancy foods, and drunk fine wine.
- Be it friendships – it has led me on the path of a variety of friendships: deep-conversational friendships, couplings, singletons, friends to drink and dance with, and those to play the occasional board games with. The entire gamut of friends from various countries has comforted and entertained this heart.
- Be it my Writer Life – I managed to published my first two books and release them at the only English library Bangkok boasts of- the Nielson Hays. It’s been lucky for my writer persona, and the book clubs I’ve belonged to, have helped diversify my taste in books- genres I may never have dared read.
- Be it waterways – The Chao Praya is a long river, and I’ve used the boat extensively; Chao Praya sunsets are particularly riveting.
- Be it island-hopping - Bangkok has also allowed us to float away to many an island within reach, many a coastal town, with the ease of seasoned travellers. I will miss the Thai countryside and the waters that cushion and lap at its contours, down south.
Time spent in this country has been rewarding and deeply healing, having left an indelible mark on our inner map, now altered forever.
Our beings remain indebted forever to the Thai touch, and its inescapably kind core, and all else that has tinged us both tangibly and intangibly.
©kamalininatesanJan2024
Hello! We have not met. We share a common friend who shared your writings and singing. You are really talented! Thailand truly is a magical place. Wish you many more travels and will look out for your posts more
If there is one word to describe your writing, it is : lyrical.
This piece is a breathless paean to your love affair with a vibrant land. The line between your enthusiasm and the welcoming warmth of a new place blurs and leaves the reader wanting more: of your writing and if the land in its varied hues!